<time>533_00:28:23,880 --> 00:28:24,960</time>
<s>而且再也没有回头</s>
<time>534_00:28:26,040 --> 00:28:31,440</time>
<s>宋代的妆容它就受到程朱理学的影响很深</s>
<time>535_00:28:32,160 --> 00:28:35,040</time>
<s>程朱理学提出了存天理而灭人欲</s>
<time>536_00:28:35,400 --> 00:28:40,800</time>
<s>但是由于对道德理想的边界没有办法严格地规定</s>
<time>537_00:28:41,160 --> 00:28:43,320</time>
<s>所以慢慢地就转化成了一种</s>
<time>538_00:28:43,680 --> 00:28:46,560</time>
<s>对于女性的极其严酷的贞节观</s>
<time>539_00:28:47,280 --> 00:28:50,880</time>
<s>对于女性的束缚在当时不仅仅要体现在道德层面</s>
<time>540_00:28:51,240 --> 00:28:52,680</time>
<s>它还要体现在肉体层面</s>
<time>541_00:28:54,120 --> 00:28:56,280</time>
<s>在妆容上一个最大的特点就是要</s>
<time>542_00:28:56,640 --> 00:28:59,520</time>
<s>从浓妆艳抹转向轻描淡写</s>
<time>543_00:29:00,240 --> 00:29:03,120</time>
<s>所以我们看宋代晋祠的这些宋塑</s>
<time>544_00:29:03,480 --> 00:29:04,560</time>
<s>脸上的妆容</s>
<time>545_00:29:04,920 --> 00:29:07,440</time>
<s>传统的那些浓艳的红妆就再也看不到了</s>
<time>546_00:29:07,800 --> 00:29:10,680</time>
<s>而且越到南宋越朴素</s>
<time>547_00:29:11,040 --> 00:29:14,280</time>
<s>到后来脸上就一点红都看不见了</s>
<time>548_00:29:14,640 --> 00:29:18,600</time>
<s>我们就只能称之为叫白妆或者素妆</s>
<time>549_00:29:20,040 --> 00:29:22,200</time>
<s>宋代妆容当中唯一的</s>
<time>550_00:29:22,560 --> 00:29:25,080</time>
<s>我们说看起来还稍微华丽一点的</s>
<time>551_00:29:25,440 --> 00:29:29,400</time>
<s>主要就集中在历代帝后像当中宋代的皇后</s>
<time>552_00:29:29,760 --> 00:29:32,280</time>
<s>以及皇后身边的侍女的脸上</s>
<time>553_00:29:33,000 --> 00:29:38,400</time>
<s>她们的脸上会贴一种用珍珠和点翠做的宝</s>
<time>554_00:29:38,760 --> 00:29:40,920</time>
<s>来增加她的这种华丽</s>
<time>555_00:29:41,640 --> 00:29:44,880</time>
<s>当然对于女性的约束除了妆容变淡</s>
<time>556_00:29:45,600 --> 00:29:46,320</time>
<s>它还体现在</s>
<time>557_00:29:48,120 --> 00:29:49,560</time>
<s>从宋代开始要缠足</s>
<time>558_00:29:49,920 --> 00:29:51,720</time>
<s>防止女性再出门乱跑</s>
<time>559_00:29:52,800 --> 00:29:54,600</time>
<s>另外就是要开始戴耳环</s>
<time>560_00:29:55,320 --> 00:29:57,480</time>
<s>宋以前汉族女子是不戴耳环的</s>
<time>561_00:29:57,840 --> 00:29:59,640</time>
<s>我们看宋代皇后就开始戴</s>
<time>562_00:30:00,000 --> 00:30:02,160</time>
<s>特别长的珍珠穿成排的（耳环）</s>
<time>563_00:30:02,520 --> 00:30:04,320</time>
<s>我们叫做珠排环</s>
<time>564_00:30:05,040 --> 00:30:09,360</time>
<s>凡是有过这种戴长耳环经历的女孩子</s>
<time>565_00:30:09,720 --> 00:30:11,160</time>
<s>大家都会有一种体会</s>
<time>566_00:30:11,520 --> 00:30:14,040</time>
<s>就是你戴这种耳环你不能够乱跑</s>
<time>567_00:30:14,760 --> 00:30:16,560</time>
<s>如果你的运动幅度一大</s>
<time>568_00:30:16,920 --> 00:30:18,720</time>
<s>它这个耳环就会“啪啪啪”拍脸</s>
<time>569_00:30:19,800 --> 00:30:21,960</time>
<s>所以说为什么会出现这种设计</s>
<time>570_00:30:22,320 --> 00:30:24,840</time>
<s>包括腰上要别组玉佩</s>
<time>571_00:30:25,200 --> 00:30:28,440</time>
<s>都是为了控制女性步态的一种设计</s>
<time>572_00:30:28,800 --> 00:30:30,960</time>
<s>这就是中国古代设计当中所谓的叫</s>
<time>573_00:30:31,320 --> 00:30:33,480</time>
<s>“藏礼于器”的一种观念</s>
<time>574_00:30:34,920 --> 00:30:38,880</time>
<s>宋代还有一种特别有趣的妆容</s>
<time>575_00:30:39,240 --> 00:30:40,680</time>
<s>叫做鱼媚子妆容</s>
<time>576_00:30:41,400 --> 00:30:43,200</time>
<s>也被记载在《宋史》当中</s>
<time>577_00:30:44,280 --> 00:30:46,080</time>
<s>我们看这上面的记载是这样写的</s>
<time>578_00:30:46,440 --> 00:30:49,680</time>
<s>说京师里巷妇人竞剪黑光纸团圈</s>
<time>579_00:30:50,040 --> 00:30:52,200</time>
<s>又装镂鱼腮中骨</s>
<time>580_00:30:52,560 --> 00:30:54,360</time>
<s>号鱼媚子以饰面</s>
<time>581_00:30:55,080 --> 00:30:59,040</time>
<s>这个妆容是我们考证得最为辛苦的一个妆容</s>
<time>582_00:31:00,120 --> 00:31:04,080</time>
<s>我们知道妆容这个话题听起来是很生活的</s>
<time>583_00:31:04,440 --> 00:31:05,880</time>
<s>而且是我们女性的刚需</s>
<time>584_00:31:06,240 --> 00:31:08,040</time>
<s>但是它作为一个研究课题来说</s>
<time>585_00:31:08,400 --> 00:31:10,200</time>
<s>其实是非常非常冷僻的</s>
<time>586_00:31:10,560 --> 00:31:11,280</time>
<s>为什么冷僻呢</s>
<time>587_00:31:11,640 --> 00:31:13,440</time>
<s>就是因为它的研究难度很大</s>
<time>588_00:31:14,160 --> 00:31:17,400</time>
<s>因为妆容它必须要依附于人的肉身而存在</s>
<time>589_00:31:17,760 --> 00:31:20,280</time>
<s>人的肉身一旦腐烂它就无从依附</s>
<time>590_00:31:21,000 --> 00:31:23,880</time>
<s>所以妆容是中国古代的物质文化研究当中</s>
<time>591_00:31:24,240 --> 00:31:25,320</time>
<s>非常罕有的</s>
<time>592_00:31:25,680 --> 00:31:29,640</time>
<s>没有第一手文物资料可供参考的一个学科</s>
<time>593_00:31:30,360 --> 00:31:32,880</time>
<s>所以我们只能通过两个途径来进行研究</s>
<time>594_00:31:33,240 --> 00:31:36,480</time>
<s>一个就是参考古代的历史文献</s>
<time>595_00:31:36,840 --> 00:31:40,080</time>
<s>一个就是参考古代的人物造像上</s>
<time>596_00:31:40,440 --> 00:31:42,240</time>
<s>保留下来的一些妆容信息</s>
<time>597_00:31:42,960 --> 00:31:45,840</time>
<s>但是参考文献我们知道它有一个短板</s>
<time>598_00:31:46,200 --> 00:31:48,720</time>
<s>就是它只知其名不知其形</s>
<time>599_00:31:49,440 --> 00:31:52,320</time>
<s>而且要把抽象的文字描述</s>
<time>600_00:31:53,040 --> 00:31:55,560</time>
<s>转化成具象的视觉形象</s>
<time>601_00:31:55,920 --> 00:31:58,440</time>
<s>这个之间的这种转换</s>
<time>602_00:31:58,800 --> 00:32:02,760</time>
<s>它就要加入作者大量的这种主观因素</s>
<time>603_00:32:04,920 --> 00:32:07,440</time>
<s>在研究鱼媚子的时候</s>
<time>604_00:32:07,800 --> 00:32:09,600</time>
<s>什么叫鱼腮中骨</s>
<time>605_00:32:09,960 --> 00:32:11,400</time>
<s>当时我们完全是一头雾水</s>
<time>606_00:32:12,120 --> 00:32:13,200</time>
<s>不知道其为何物</s>
<time>607_00:32:13,920 --> 00:32:16,800</time>
<s>后来我们就先放在一边</s>
<time>608_00:32:17,160 --> 00:32:18,600</time>
<s>就开始研究首饰</s>
<time>609_00:32:18,960 --> 00:32:22,200</time>
<s>研究首饰的时候发现宋代女子当中有一种女冠</s>
<time>610_00:32:22,920 --> 00:32:24,000</time>
<s>叫做鱼枕冠</s>
<time>611_00:32:24,360 --> 00:32:26,880</time>
<s>关于鱼枕冠的材料的记载比较多</s>
<time>612_00:32:27,240 --> 00:32:28,320</time>
<s>我们才知道</s>
<time>613_00:32:28,680 --> 00:32:33,360</time>
<s>在青鱼的脑袋里有一种骨头叫做鱼石</s>
<time>614_00:32:33,720 --> 00:32:36,600</time>
<s>就是我们现在看到的刚取出来的样子</s>
<time>615_00:32:36,960 --> 00:32:38,400</time>
<s>它是很硬的一种骨头</s>
<time>616_00:32:39,120 --> 00:32:43,080</time>
<s>这种骨头经过打磨抛光油浸之后</s>
<time>617_00:32:43,440 --> 00:32:47,400</time>
<s>就会呈现出一种类似于玛瑙一样的宝石的光泽</s>
<time>618_00:32:48,120 --> 00:32:53,520</time>
<s>然后再把它和黑光纸团组合在一起</s>
<time>619_00:32:53,880 --> 00:32:56,040</time>
<s>就形成了这种鱼媚子妆容</s>
<time>620_00:32:56,400 --> 00:32:58,200</time>
<s>当然我们在进行妆容复原的时候</s>
<time>621_00:32:58,560 --> 00:33:04,320</time>
<s>还要寻找与这个时代的气质相吻合的人来做模特</s>
<time>622_00:33:04,680 --> 00:33:05,760</time>
<s>当时我的学生说</s>
<time>623_00:33:06,120 --> 00:33:10,080</time>
<s>老师我觉得你的气质好像特别像宋代的女子气质</s>
<time>624_00:33:10,440 --> 00:33:11,160</time>
<s>比较文气</s>
<time>625_00:33:11,880 --> 00:33:12,960</time>
<s>所以这个模特就是我</s>
<time>626_00:33:13,320 --> 00:33:14,760</time>
<s>当然她比我好看多了</s>
<time>627_00:33:15,480 --> 00:33:16,560</time>
<s>因为它是P过的</s>
<time>628_00:33:18,720 --> 00:33:23,400</time>
<s>所以说这个妆容由于它的研究难度很大</s>
<time>629_00:33:23,760 --> 00:33:25,200</time>
<s>又加入很多的主观因素</s>
<time>630_00:33:25,920 --> 00:33:29,160</time>
<s>所以说可能它最终呈现出来的效果</s>
<time>631_00:33:29,520 --> 00:33:32,400</time>
<s>它到底和历史的真实离得有多远</s>
<time>632_00:33:32,760 --> 00:33:34,920</time>
<s>这个也是我们经常被质疑的一个问题</s>
<time>633_00:33:35,280 --> 00:33:36,360</time>
<s>但是我们觉得</s>
<time>634_00:33:36,720 --> 00:33:39,600</time>
<s>即使是充满着无数的疏漏与不确定性</s>
<time>635_00:33:39,960 --> 00:33:42,840</time>
<s>我们对这个方面的梳理依旧是有价值的</s>
<time>636_00:33:44,280 --> 00:33:46,800</time>
<s>像辽代的契丹族</s>
<time>637_00:33:47,520 --> 00:33:51,120</time>
<s>它还有这种观之如金佛之面的</s>
<time>638_00:33:51,480 --> 00:33:54,720</time>
<s>面涂深黄红眉黑吻的佛妆</s>
<time>639_00:33:55,080 --> 00:34:00,480</time>
<s>像元代的蒙古族女性还流行这种一字平眉</s>
<time>640_00:34:00,840 --> 00:34:02,640</time>
<s>就像尺打的一样特别特别平直</s>
<time>641_00:34:03,720 --> 00:34:08,040</time>
<s>我们一般在研究的时候凡是有历史人物造像的</s>
<time>642_00:34:08,400 --> 00:34:09,840</time>
<s>一般我们都会以史证史</s>
<time>643_00:34:10,200 --> 00:34:12,000</time>
<s>直接拿历史文物造像展示给大家</s>
<time>644_00:34:12,720 --> 00:34:14,880</time>
<s>但是对于大量的没有历史人物造像的</s>
<time>645_00:34:15,240 --> 00:34:16,680</time>
<s>我们就只能进行复原了</s>
<time>646_00:34:17,760 --> 00:34:18,480</time>
<s>到了明代</s>
<time>647_00:34:19,200 --> 00:34:21,720</time>
<s>这种素雅的妆面依旧沿袭</s>
<time>648_00:34:22,080 --> 00:34:24,240</time>
<s>不论是皇后还是命妇</s>
<time>649_00:34:24,960 --> 00:34:26,040</time>
<s>妆容都特别地素净</s>
<time>650_00:34:26,400 --> 00:34:27,480</time>
<s>到清代也是如此</s>
<time>651_00:34:28,560 --> 00:34:30,360</time>
<s>但是清代到乾隆年间</s>
<time>652_00:34:30,720 --> 00:34:33,600</time>
<s>流行过一种特别有趣的唇妆</s>
<time>653_00:34:33,960 --> 00:34:36,120</time>
<s>就是上唇不画下唇涂满</s>
<time>654_00:34:36,480 --> 00:34:38,640</time>
<s>我们称之为叫地盖天式的唇妆</s>
<time>655_00:34:39,000 --> 00:34:41,880</time>
<s>乾隆爷的时候的这种唇妆下唇还是涂满的</s>
<time>656_00:34:42,240 --> 00:34:46,200</time>
<s>到后来嘉庆道光下唇就变得越来越小</s>
<time>657_00:34:46,560 --> 00:34:48,000</time>
<s>最后变成一个圆点</s>
<time>658_00:34:48,360 --> 00:34:50,160</time>
<s>这个可能是满汉合流之后</s>
<time>659_00:34:50,520 --> 00:34:52,680</time>
<s>受到汉族的樱桃小口一点点的影响</s>
<time>660_00:34:53,400 --> 00:34:55,200</time>
<s>所呈现出来的一种现象</s>
<time>661_00:34:56,280 --> 00:34:58,080</time>
<s>到了最后我们说</s>
<time>662_00:34:59,520 --> 00:35:04,560</time>
<s>末代皇帝和末代皇后婉容与溥仪的这种形象</s>
<time>663_00:35:04,920 --> 00:35:07,440</time>
<s>我们看出他们已经呈现出明显的</s>
<time>664_00:35:07,800 --> 00:35:11,040</time>
<s>现代化以及国际化的这种趋势了</s>
<time>665_00:35:11,400 --> 00:35:16,440</time>
<s>所以我们中国古代妆容的欣赏到此也就告一段落</s>
<time>666_00:35:17,520 --> 00:35:20,400</time>
<s>我们的团队在过去主要探寻的是</s>
<time>667_00:35:20,760 --> 00:35:24,360</time>
<s>关于中国古代妆容的历史和考证</s>
<time>668_00:35:24,720 --> 00:35:26,520</time>
<s>未来我们团队还将探寻</s>
<time>669_00:35:26,880 --> 00:35:30,120</time>
<s>中国当代妆容究竟应该走向何方</s>
<time>670_00:35:30,840 --> 00:35:32,640</time>
<s>所以我们说探寻何为中国妆</s>
<time>671_00:35:33,000 --> 00:35:34,800</time>
<s>是我们团队给自己的一个使命</s>
<time>672_00:35:35,520 --> 00:35:40,560</time>
<s>如果大家对于中国古代妆容还想进一步深入地了解</s>
<time>673_00:35:40,920 --> 00:35:43,080</time>
<s>大家可以关注我们团队新出的一本书</s>
<time>674_00:35:43,440 --> 00:35:44,880</time>
<s>叫《中国妆容之美》</s>
<time>675_00:35:45,240 --> 00:35:45,960</time>
<s>好谢谢大家</s>
