V&A South Kensington
Explore fabrics from across Africa that tell stories about the histories and cultures of the people who made them. Have a go at designing and making a fabric pattern that tells a story about you. Designed for ages seven and up.
Fabrics, patterns and stories
Ghanaian artist El Anatsui said that "cloth is to the African what monuments are to Westerners". He is saying that in many African cultures, from Kenya to Nigeria, fabric is as important as a big building or statue. It can tell stories, and mark moments of history.
Aunty, Mum and Me Talking About My Fabric Collection, tile panel, by Mawuena Kattah, 2016, London, England. Museum no. C.30:1 to 9-2020. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Àdìrẹ fabric
These pictures show 'àdìrẹ' fabric which is historically made by the Yoruba of Western Nigeria.
This fabric is often indigo blue, as the dye is made from a plant called indigo. The patterns are particular to a local area – this way, when people see the cloth, they know where it was made and the story it tells.
Left to right: Starch resist indigo-dyed cotton cloth, 1960 – 64, Nigeria. Museum no. CIRC.587-1965. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London; Indigo resist dyed cotton cloth, 1960 – 64, Nigeria. Museum no. CIRC.591-1965. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London;  Indigo-dyed starch cotton cloth, 1960 – 64, Nigeria. Museum no. CIRC.588-1965. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
This fabric was made in the town of Ibadan in South-Western Nigeria. The pattern is called Ibadandun which means 'Ibadan is good' in the local Yoruba language.
What shapes and patterns can you see in this fabric?
Indigo-dyed starch cotton cloth, 1960 – 64, Nigeria. Museum no. CIRC.588-1965. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Can you spot any pictures of animals and birds? Can you see five pillars in some of the squares? These represent the pillars of the town hall in Ibadan.
Indigo-dyed starch cotton cloth, 1960 – 64, Nigeria. Museum no. CIRC.588-1965. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
How are àdìrẹ patterns made?
Historically, àdìrẹ cloth was mainly made by women, using techniques passed down from their mothers and grandmothers.
Àdìrę textile staining, 2017, Nigeria. © Wikimedia Creative Commons
The patterns are produced using various methods which prevent the dye from reaching the cloth. When tied with raffia it is called àdìrẹ oniko.
The pictures and patterns we have been looking at were painted onto the fabric using a starch paste, this is often made from a root vegetable called cassava. This technique is called àdìrẹ eleko.
When the paste is dry, the fabric is dyed. The paste protects these areas from the dye, so when it is removed the patterns and pictures are magically revealed! The intensity of the colour depends on how many times it is dipped in the dye pot. The more times, the darker the colour.
Indigo-dyed starch cotton cloth, 1960 – 64, Nigeria. Museum no. CIRC.588-1965. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Àdìrẹ fabric and fashion
Although the àdìrẹ technique is very old and reflects the traditions of the Yoruba, the fabric is used in fashion around the world and is often worn to celebrate Yoruba community and culture.
Kofi Ansah 'Indigo' Couture 1997 - Narh & Linda. Photo © 1997 Eric Don-Arthur
Ghanaian fashion designer Kofi Ansah was inspired by àdìrẹ in his designs. What would you design using àdìrẹ fabric?
Make a talking textile
Have a go at designing and making a fabric that says something about you, inspired by the àdìrę technique. Instead of cassava paste we will use a paste made from flour and water, and instead of indigo dye we can use fabric paint.
You will need:
Pencil and paper or sketchbook
White fabric
